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May is a very strange, but lovely month too, to travel in India. Not ideal, but not that bad either. You'll notice it quickly. Step outside one afternoon and the heat is already there. Not creeping in. Just a present. It makes you move differently. You start looking for shade without thinking about it. You take more breaks. Sitting down feels normal, not lazy. Walking slows, but in a way that makes you notice things more. You don’t rush. You stop asking how fast you’re moving

The tourist town of Yamunotri, which is known as the primary resting place for the Char Dham pilgrimage, is a fundamentally important...